FOOD STORY
Le Zeppole di Nonna Mena
It was the morning the 24th of December, La Vigilia. I had an appointment with grandmother Filomena, also called Mena, to make and eat, these deep-fried, soft and crispy doughnut balls, to get the real authentic christmas feeling from Southern Italy.
Nonna Mena has already been up a few hours this day of Christmas, when we visit her in the morning. The batter is ready to be dipped into the hot oil on her stove. She has been waiting with patience for us to arrive. The old lady, 96 years old, is always dressed nice, also when she is making food in her own kitchen.
I can see it in her eyes that she appreciates the interest we have for her knowledge and passion. Now it’s our chance to bring this tradition further on to the next generations. That warms her heart.
It smells Christmas and tradition in Nonnas kitchen this December 24rd. With the sound from the talk-show on the television in the background, we dip the varm, deep-fried balls in a liqueur of cooked wine before we start eating them, one after another. How delicious. They just melt in the mouth.
Nonna Mena tells us about the old times, as if it was yesterday. I am so filled up when we leave her a couple of hours later, just starting the feast for a week ahead. Christmas in Italy is not exactly a light diet. But you can’t really say no to this delicious traditional food.
La Zeppola Napoletana is a traditional fried sweet pastry that you make for Christmas in Naples and in the region.
I really love to learn these traditional recipes from the older generation, and they are such an inspiration for me in the kitchen. All the hours they have spent making food and pastries for their families during the years.
“Food for us comes from our relatives, whether they have wings or fins or roots. That is how we consider food. Food has a culture. It has a history. It has a story. It has relationships.”
Winona LaDuke
RECIPE
Le Zeppole Napoletane - 12 pieces
200 gr flour (tipo 00)
2 tbs baking soda
2 tbs olive oil
a pinch of salt
zest of one lemon
2 dl whole milk
oil for frying
In a large bowl add the three eggs, a pinch of salt, lemon zest, 2 tbs olive oil and mix.
Add the milk, then the flour and the baking soda. Mix all the ingredients well together.
The consistency of the batter should be thicker than pancake batter. Add a bit of extra milk or flour to adjust.
Cover the bowl with a cloth and leave to rise in a warm environment for about 1 hour.
Get your oil very hot in a deep frying pan and with a spoon drop strands of dough in irregular shapes.
Turn the dough in the oil until it is golden in color. Remove the Zeppole from the oil and quickly sprinkle with a generous dose of granulated sugar on all sides. Alternatively you can use powder sugar.